The saying goes: Kashi Pilgrimage is not
complete without blessings of Kaal Bhairav. It is advised to make
this trip to Kaal Bhairav as soon as we arrive in Kashi. He is the Door-Guard (Dwarpal) of
Kashi.
There are many lists of
must-visit-places-in-Kashi are floating around in the internet. However, the
ones we have been advised as must-visit time and again will be listed here. The
places visited by Holy Mother are mentioned below along with Her comments.
1.
Kaal
Bhairav Shiva (Holy Mother had repeated mantram in the corner of the
courtyard for some time).
He
is the Dwarpal/Kotwal (Sentry) of Kashi. No trip to Kashi is complete without
His blessings. Popular belief throughout northern India is that, if one does
not pay respects to Kaal Bhairav Shiva but visits every other temple in Kashi,
the whole pilgrimage is considered null and void. Hence one starts Kashi temple
visits with first visit to Kaal Bhairav.
2.
Baba
Vishwanath (Holy Mother visited
Him. She visited Him first before going for Ma Annapurna’s darshan following
the protocol of Kashi darshan).
Vishwanath literally means Lord of the Universe. He is the main
attraction, Lord of Kashi. It’s one of the 12 Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva. Here
Lord is shiny polished black shivalinga encased in golden Gouri-patta.
The
best aarati performed in the deep silence of the dark night occurs at 3am known
as Mangal Aarati Sringaar. One has to procure tickets for this in
advance and stand in line latest by 2:45am.
Baba
Vishwanath Temple Trust sells the famous Baba’s prasadi laal-penda
which is arguably the best laal penda in the world. This has been offered to
Baba already they claim but one can buy this and offer to Baba again during
worship and make it His prasad for one’s own mental satisfaction!
3.
Ma
Annapurna (Holy Mother visited
Annapurna Temple after visiting Lord Vishwanath)
As
the name suggests, the Divine Mother provides food for all creatures big and
small. This was vouchsafed by Thakur Sri Ramakrishna Paramhamsadev’s Guru,
Totapuri Maharaj’s brother disciple, Chameli Puri, upon Holy Mother’s enquiry
“Who feeds you?” Without Mother Annapurna’s grace no creature can get food.
Even Lord Shiva, the eternal (Bhikshu Yogi) mendicant, had to beg his
morsel from Mother Annapurna.
It
is said that in Kashi no living creature goes hungry even for a day. Everybody
is fed atleast once per day before midnight. Once, during Shivaratri a devotee
was keeping vigil. Though everyone fasts yet being an inmate of the Ramakrishna
Mission Ashram, the devotee was offered prasad for breakfast and lunch which
was duly refused. After the first prahar pf the puja suddenly someone came and
thrust a leaf bowl containing some cut-fruit prasad. The devotee kept it in the
bag and continued to participate in the puja. Again, at the end of second
prahar somebody came and offered another bowl of prasad. Thus, in Kashi, Mother
Annapurna fulfills Her promise. She is the adhishthatri devi of Kashi.
There
are some dogs who will eat only Kashi-penda (a famous sweetmeat made from milk
and sugar). One can come across them in front of Kaal Bhairav temple. One would
wonder if they are well fed? Guess what? They look very robust, happy and
healthy. In 1994 when the author visited Kashi, there used to be a black dog who
would approach visitor in front of a sweet shop near Dashashwamedh ghat, tail
wagging, expecting to be fed. While trying to feed him bread, he looked at the
offering, wagged his tail sat down on his hind legs and looked expectantly at
the face without eating. The shop owner said he eats only penda and indeed so
it was!
There
is a famous rabri shop which opens for only 2 hrs., 7:30-9:30pm everyday. This
nameless (which every local knows) shop can be approached from Gate no1
bansfatak while walking towards the chouraha. On the right would be 2 carts
side by side selling fast food like vadas and momos and on the left would be
this 10ft tall x 10 ft deep x 4 ft wide non-descript hole-in-a-wall shop with
open shutters. They sell hot milk and Rabri only. As of 2022 march the price
was Rs 50 for 100gms of rabri. Promptly at 9:30pm the shutters would come down
over empty vessels which contained fresh rabri and hot milk. There one would
find a happy robust dog quietly loitering amongst the customers. With a big
clay-pot (kulhar) full of steaming hot milk lovingly the address comes:
“Oh Mahadev, aao, aa jao!” Oh Lord Shiva, come, please come. Immediately the
dog with wagging tail goes in peace to the side of the shop where the shop
owner with utmost care blows some air to cool down the steaming hot milk, sets
it down on the ground which gets consumed with utmost satisfaction! No
questions asked!
Incidentally
Mother’s evening aarati (around 8pm) is quite long lasting about 30 minutes and
at the end delicious laddu prasad is distributed.
The
Annapurna Temple Trust serves sumptuous south Indian cuisine as Annabhog
everyday around noon to whoever wishes to partake the prasad. About 200+ people
are fed everyday. It is free and runs on donation. It is said that one lady in
Chennai received a command from Divine Mother to start this Anna-chatra. She
moved to Kashi and started this charter and now many devout devotees from
southern India have relocated to participate in this Yajna!
4.
Dashashwamedh
Ghat (Holy Mother was taken by
horse carriage here. Mother took a bath in the Ganga water at this ghat. After
this she visited Baba Vishwanath and Ma Annapurna).
As
the name implies, in the ancient times, Horse (Ashvamedha) sacrifice (Yagna)
used to be performed here. The most famous of this Ashvamedha Yagna was performed
by the Yudhishthir of the 5 Pandav brothers after winning the Mahabharat War.
Legend has it that Brahma created this Ghat to welcome Lord Shiva. It’s the
most spectacular amongst all the ghats. Every day, evening aarati of Ganga
Maiya is performed in full splendor at this ghat which is one of the
attractions of Kashi visit.
5.
Ganga
Aarati
Spectacular
vesper service is synchronously performed to Mother Ganga every evening. Ganga
aarati is a synchronized conduction by 5 priests on Dashashwamedh Ghat. Right
after sunset as dusk settles into the darkness over the silent waters of river
Ganga, 5 priests on
5 erected podiums on Dashashwamedh ghat start with blowing of conch shell (Shankh), brass
bells (Ghanta), Heavy Brass
Plate being struck with wooden rod (Kanshar), Damaru, 50-lights lighted lamps,
lighted Karpur deep, cloth, flower (Pushpa) and Chamar. The Aarati
starts at dusk and continues in hushed silence as the night descends upon the
silent dark waters of Ganga. The heavenly sounds would float away amidst the
smoke of Dhuna,
incense (Agarbatti). Bright halogen lights are focused on the 5
pedestals erected on the Dashashwamedh Ghat close to the water line. In the
middle of the row Mother Ganga’s
little image and place of worship is erected where the daily and special
worship is offered.
Aarati
viewing can be done in two modes; either from the boat or from the ghat. One
can sit on the steps of the ghat. If one wishes to participate in the Ganga
Puja then the participants get front row (best) seat for a reasonable fee. At
the end of the puja the participants receive puja prasad.
Many
watch this splendor from boat soaking in awe the sight of illumined city of
Kashi, the Moksha Kshetra, while others from land like to watch how the light
of the lamps dispel the advancing darkness reminding oneself of the eternal
Truth that dispels the eternal fear of death.
6.
Manikarnika
Ghat (Holy
Mother visited Manikarnika).
Most
famous place on earth for the Hindus. It’s a cremation ghat. Thakur Ramakrishna
Paramhamsa Dev had the vision of Jiva’s liberation (Mukti/Moksha) being
granted by Lord Vishwanath aided by Divine Mother.
This
most famous cremation ghat’s legend has it that the fire of pyre has not gone
out since time immemorial. Indeed, at any time of the day or night, there is
always atleast one dead body in the queue waiting to be burnt! There is no
commotion. The fortunate jiva’s (embodies) body arrives decked in
splendor riding on the shoulders of the bearers. Then the body is sanctified in
the Ganga waters, amidst some Vedic rituals while the pyre gets constructed. The
body is then placed on the pyre and the fire is lit by the designated person
performing the mukhagni. Following this the full fire is lit and keeps
on burning clearing away all the dross until ashes only remain. This is what
our mortal eyes behold. The above incident is a perfect reminder to the
perishable nature of life, the stark Truth. Lord Shiva, the great Truth, the
imperishable, adorns this ash (bhashma); the remnant, the final essence,
after all perishables is cast aside. Yet, the Yogis’ eyes behold the severing
of the 8 strings untying the jiva into Shiva-hood.
One
approaches this ghat via toto rickshaw or on foot. Once the ghat-restorations
are complete, one can walk across from Dashashwamedh Ghat. Often tourists like to watch the scene from
the boat especially during the sunset or evening. But one cannot alight from
the boat and approach the top of the ghat as dead bodies get bathed at the
waterline. Spending some time here reflecting on the
ephemerality of life is highly recommended. There is a modest tea stall with
benches at one side from where a good sweeping view is obtained as well as some
shade from the sun during the day.
7.
Trailanga
Swami Ashram (Holy Mother visited this Ashram. Thakur visited
Trailanga Swami Himself.).
The
great yogi regarded by some as reincarnated Ganga-Putra Bhishma, by others including
Thakur Sri Ramakrishna Paramhamsa dev, verily as walking Lord Shiva. Trailanga
Swami adorned the shores of Ganga in Kashi and played many feats like floating
in the opposite direction of the current without moving any limb, disappearing
into the water for hours, showing up anywhere in impossible situations like
outside the prison cell when he was locked inside, bringing to life a certainly
dead person etc. Here, Thakur paid a few visits to him, fed him kheer (paayesh)
and had a few conversations. There are two framed beautiful pictures of Thakur
in conversation with Trailanga Swami and Swami Vivekananda with Trailanga
Swami.
In
those days Trailanga Swami was observing Mounavrata (vow of silence).
Thakur paid a visit to him and asked “How does one see God? What happens after
darshan? “To this the swami started crying profusely and then he burst out
laughing. He laughed and laughed. Thakur explained that at first one has to
weep for God like a child pining for his mother. After the darshan the blessed
soul swims in Ananda, joy. Everything becomes a mart of joy.
In
the center of the temple is a huge black stone shivalinga which Trailanga Swami
discovered in the waters of Ganga and carried it up on his own shoulders to his
ashram. Lifting this huge shivalinga by one person is impossible and carrying
it up the steep huge steps is unthinkable. But He was Lord Shiva Himself!
The
majesty of the old walls, dimly lit room and the massive Shivalinga open for
embrace have now given way to modernization. A spacious temple has been made
with the original Shivalinga encased for preservation. A beautiful statue of
Sakshi Gopal is also there along with the ever- faithful Nandi. These possibly
are later additions.
Access
to this temple by boat is from Panchganga ghat. One has to take the left steps
at the bifurcation to approach this ashram while the right side leads to Bindu
Madhav Temple. One
can get to this ashram via auto which leaves one at the main road. Then one
must walk the narrow street (gali) to get to the ashram. Incidentally
Benaras is famous for its galis.
8. Bindu Madhav (Holy Mother had visited Beni Madhav temple twice. She
commented that She had climbed to the top of the temple tower when She had
visited the first time after Thakur’s passing away.)
Originally
the Beni Madav temple was grand and beautiful. Under Aurangzeb’s demolition, it
got reconstructed into Alamgir Mosque and Bindu Madhav temple of a much smaller
dominion was built later on the Panchganga Ghat. The courtyard of this temple
has a beautiful view of the Ganges. This quaint temple by the Panchganga Ghat
has a quieting atmosphere. Being very small the temple sanctum cannot
accommodate more than a few devotees at a time.
To
access this temple from boat, one has to climb up the steep steps of Panchganga
ghat and go towards the right at the bifurcation. A wide patio verandah with a
sweeping view of Ganges encircles the small entry door to the temple hall and
shrine.
9.
Tilbhandeshwar
Shiva (Upon seeing the deity,
Holy Mother remarked that “This is a Swayambhu (self manifested) Linga).
Indeed,
the black Linga is so huge it almost fills up the entire room. It is
said this massive shivalinga is living and growing each year! One is allowed to sit in the garbha-mandir
(inner sanctum housing the Linga) and meditate here.
One
can visit this temple via toto rickshaw ride or by walking from Ramakrishna
Advaita Ashram.
10.
Gouri-Kedareshwar
Shiva (According to Holy
Mother, Sri Sarada Devi, darshan of Gouri-Kedareshwar is as good as Kedarnath
Shiva Darshan. Holy Mother stated this Kedar and Kedarnath’s Kedar are one and
the same. Gouri-Kedareshwar deity is truly living).
From here one gets the best view of River
Ganga. Here in the settling afternoon sun, the wide river with its beige white
sand bank gives the illusion of a calm sea. One gets a spectacular semicircular
view of the sprawling-city of Kashi along the banks of Ganges.
From the temple, after the steep downhill
climb along the steps to the Kedar Ghat below, one finds the Uttarbahini
Ganga (Northward-flowing Ganga) water very clear and devotees prefer to bathe
here too. There are changing rooms available for women. One can float in the
water and find oneself floating towards the left that is towards Delhi instead
of to the right, which is towards Kolkata! This happens to be another specialty
of Kashi.
One can walk to Gouri-Kedareshwar or take a
rickshaw from Tilbhandeshwar or auto directly to the temple.
11.
Assi Ghat (Holy Mother took a bath at this ghat before visiting
Sankatmochan.)
Incidentally, this ghat is very neat, clean
and wide. Its approachable a block away via toto or auto. One has to walk along
the banks to reach this place.
The younger crowd like to hang around here
hence the touristy feel is enhanced by the eclectic crafts shops, fast food
joints and psychedelic lighted evening boat rides including bajra.
Bajras are double decker boats. In the dark evenings, these boats ply the
silent waters with flashing lights like shooting stars w/o blaring music. Often
people hire these to watch the Ganga aarati and see the lighted Benaras city
line along the Ganga bank in the still darkness of the night.
12.
Sankatmochan
(Holy Mother visited Sankatmochan. She bowed
down to Sri Ramachandra and Mahavir Hanumanji in this temple.)
This
famous temple is dedicated to Sri Hanumanji. A wonderful atmosphere pervades
this modest graceful place. After the dispatch of the monkey-army infesting the
place to some forest in Madhya Pradesh, government has ensured a calm
atmosphere for the devotees.
Pilgrims
can pick up any Hanuman-chalisa book from the heaped pile, sit
comfortably under a ceiling fan and recite the whole Stotram or do japa or
meditate to one’s hearts content. The simple murti of Hanumanji in orange stone
assures the devotees that the heartfelt prayer has been heard.
One may or may not buy
sweets sold from the counter to offer for puja. Here puja is simple and totally
unostentatious. Bhakti is all that is required.
In the courtyard of
this temple there used to be a huge Banyan tree. Holy Mother touched the
fortunate tree and remarked how similar it was to the Panchavati Banyan tree of
Dakshineshwar.
13.
Durga
Mandir (Swami Vivekananda
sang songs to Mother Durga here. Holy Mother visited Durga Bari)
Close to Sankatmochan
and Tulasi Manas Mandir, pilgrims usually visit these three temples together.
On can reach this via auto or toto.
14.
Tulsi
Manas Mandir
This temple was erected on the place where Goswami
Tulsidas wrote his epic Ramcharitamanas. Ramayana katha is engraved on
the walls of this temple. This is an Ode to Sant Tulsidas. Many associated
stories are there: Ghost liberation, thwarting Robbery, Swami Brahmanandaji’s
darshan of Hanumanji etc. This temple has a very calm atmosphere.
One can reach this
temple via auto or toto.
15.
Botuk
Bhairav (Holy Mother visited this temple).
Here the Bhairav form of Lord Shiva’s is dwarf in
nature. Hence the name Botuk. Lord’s vehicle, Vahana, are dogs. In this
temple, the Lord is offered liquor and wine. A homakunda with warm ashes,
smoke bellowing, lies right across in front of the temple. Astonishingly 2 dogs
lie happily sleeping on these hot ashes from which smoke rises up even on hot
summer days.! One has to navigate one’s way past them to go to the shrine.
During Alambazar math days, Swami Shivananda maharaj
was sleeping next to Swami Vivekananda on the same bed. Suddenly, in the middle
of the night Shivanandaji (aka Mahapurush Maharaj) awoke to bright light
filling the room. Once his eyes adjusted, he saw about 11 of little Shivas
about 7-8 years old, white complexioned, bereft of clothes, with matted hair sitting
with shining trident around the sleeping Swami Vivekananda, guarding him. The
bright effulgence from their bodies filled the room. Mahapurushji woke with
start and vigorously shook Swamiji (Vivekananda) awake exclaiming “Swamiji,
look, what are these?” Swamiji nonchalantly rolled to the other side sleepily
murmuring “Tarakda (Mahapurush Maharaj’s pre-monastic name), don’t worry; go to
sleep. They are Botuk Shivas. They have been guarding me since childhood.”
16. Ganga Boat Ride
One may take a boat ride from Dashashwamedh or Assi
ghat. Typically, one takes from Assi ghat to Panchganga Ghat and returns back. One
can pass various main ghats of Kashi and ask the boatman to divulge their
associated legends. Typically, the Dashashwamedh, Manikarnika, Maharaja
Harishchandra, Varahi, Ahilyabai, etc are the ghats one can traverse on the
way.
If ride in undertaken near sunset time, then one can
watch the ganga aarati from the boat itself. Before sailing, one must notify
the boatman to tarry at Manikarnika and the intention of watching the aarati
from boat. For those with leg or knee
pain, Dashashwamedh ghat is preferred as the steps are not as steep as Assi or
Panchganga ghat. One must remember that Ganga is uttar-vahini here i.e.,
the current flows from south to north direction. Hence if one gets a hand rowed
boat, the boatman will have to put extra effort while rowing back from
Panchganga ghat.
17. Sarnath
(Holy Mother visited with several of Her companions.)
Lord Gautam Buddha, preached His first sermon here to
his 5 disciples. The Eightfold Path the 4 Noble Truths were taught here. This
was called deer park (Migadaya) where deer roamed unmolested.
Incidentally, all Buddhas preach their first sermon here. For the Buddhists, this
place is one of the 4 unchanging spots (Avijahitatthanani).
It takes atleast half a day to have a good visit. It requires
a good 45 mins by auto or toto to reach here from Kashi Advaita Ashram. A
roundtrip is usually arranged with the auto dealer as return transport is not
guaranteed. One finds a fine Buddha Stupa, ruins scattered amongst the soft
green grass of the park.
Here Holy Mother visited with several of Her
companions. She saw Buddha as Light while they were visiting another group of
tourists came and were marveling the engravings, sculptures. Mother commented
that in their previous birth, they were the ones who constructed this stupa and
now centuries later they have come back to admire the sculpture, their own handiwork.
Note:
Once the above list is completed, if one
wishes then the following places can be visited. It is not mandatory that the
above places must be completed before continuing with the following list.
1.
Thakur’s Paduka Bhavan
When Thakur visited
Kashi with Mathur Babu, this is the house that was rented and Thakur stayed at
the top floor. Highlight of this place is a glass encased pair of used slippers
of Thakur Ramakrishna Paramhamsa dev and the cot he slept in. Many pictures of saints were later added by
each member of the visiting sect. This has literally engulfed all the open wall
space.
Back in 2001, there
used to be two floor length windows with wooden shutters split in the middle so
that the 4 halves can be opened independently at will. This room overlooked the
wide Ganges flowing peacefully and lot of fresh Ganges air would waft in. Now
this room is cluttered with pictures and the windows are closed off. The house
is in shambles and one literally has to know where to go to reach this place.
It’s quite dark and dingy inside the main door leading to the third floor. So,
a knowledgeable guide is required.
2.
Lakshmi Niwas
Holy Mother stayed at
this place with a number of women devotees including Golap Ma, Radhu, Maku,
Bhudev, M’s wife and others. This place is very close to the Ramakrishna
Mission (literally on the other side of the road) and situated in a bylane (gali).
Many incidents happened out of which a few will be quoted below.
This blessed place
witnessed many spiritual incidences. Once one-woman devotee came to offer
obeisance to Holy Mother. However, since this was her first visit, she mistook
the stately Golap Ma as Holy Mother and proceeded to offer her pranams. Golap
Ma immediately pointed to Holy Mother but in fun Holy Mother pointed her back
to Golap Ma. Thoroughly confused the poor lady went back to Golap Ma and the
same incident repeated. After a few times of this play, finally Golap Ma gave
her a big rebuke stating can you not recognize a divine face from a mortal one?
Indeed, then the lady came to her senses and bowed down to Mother. Well, If
Mahamaya does not let Herself be recognized who can indeed recognize Her? “Ke
tomare jante paarey, tumi na janale porey! “
One day Swami
Brahmananda Maharaj came to pay his respects to Holy Mother and Golap Ma asked:
“Rakhal (Sw. Brahmanandaji’s pre monastic name), Mother is asking; why does a
devotee propitiate Shakti (Divine Mother) at the beginning of worship?”
Brahmanandaji immediately replied: “Because the key to the knowledge of Brahman
is in Her hands. If She does not unlock the door by Her grace, it’s
impossible to commune with Brahman.” Saying this Maharaj started
singing “Shankari Charane Mono Magno hoye rao re...” (On my mind, stay immersed
at the feet of Shankari, consort of Shankar, Lord Shiva) and went into ecstasy
dancing in the courtyard. At the end of the song, he rushed out joyfully
roaring “ho, ho, ho!” Holy Mother watched this from upstairs and was very pleased
and some devotees witnessed this event too including M.
In this very house
Holy Mother invited the monks for a sumptuous noon feast. Swamis Brahmananda,
Turiyananda, Shivananda and other monks attended. At the end of the feast each
swami was given a cotton dhoti. Only Swami Brahmananda got a silk dhoti. Upon
being asked the reason, Holy Mother replied “because he is the spiritual son
(of Thakur)”. Everybody tied their respective dhoti on their head and started
dancing joyfully in front of the Holy Mother. A mart of bliss flowed.
This is the blessed
house where Holy Mother proclaimed that She Herself is Maya,
Mahamaya.!
3. Ramakrishna Mission
Home of Service (Kauriya
Aspatal)
Holy Mother, Swami Vivekananda, Swamis Adbhutananda,
Turiyananda, Shivananda, Saradananda, and many other direct disciples and their
initiates visited here time and again. Swami Vivekananda named it Ramakrishna
Home of Service.
Holy Mother Visited the hospital and was very
pleased. She said:” Thakur is here. Service in true spirit is being performed
here.” She even sent a donation of Ten Rupee note which is safely boxed
and stored. The monks believe the hospital is running on the interest of this
Mother Lakshmi’s donation…! One can ask the secretary maharaj for permission to
see this note.
Swami Turiyananda stayed in the ashram for
more than 4 years. His room is housed in a separate one storied building
named Turiyananda Bhavan. It’s closed to the public and open for monk to
meditate generally. However, on Revd. Turiyanandaji’s Tithi Puja Day, a rare
event happens. This room is open from 8:30am – 12:30pm for general public to
pay obeisance and meditate. Many monks, nuns from Sarada Math and devotees come
to pay their respects to Revd. Turiyanandaji this day.
Lighted in the spirit of service as preached by Swami
Vivekananda, in 1900, a group of 4 young men started this hospital with a
capital of 4 annas only that was procured through begging. With full sincerity
and dedication, they catered to the poor and destitute section of the society
as an act of worship. Swami Vivekananda was so impressed by the service of
these dedicated youths during his 1902 visit that he immediately wrote an
appeal for funds. He also named it Ramakrishna Home of Service. Before it was
called “Poor men’s relief Association.”
During ground breaking for the main wall
construction, Lobeshwar Shivalinga was discovered in the earth. He is
housed in a small temple within the Mission complex and regular puja is
performed. During Shivaratri, the first portion of the puja is started here
around 5pm with chantings, bhajans etc. After its completed, then the main puja
gets started in the Advaita Ashram puja verandah at the designated puja time.
Every Ekadashi, Ramnaam gets conducted
zealously in the mission hall with everyone participating. This is per instruction
of the first president of the order, Swami Brahmananda, after his vision of
Hanumanji attending Ramnaam in person. A simple altar with picture of Sri
Ramchandra, Sita and Lakshman is arranged while an empty seat placed at the
foot of the picture for Hanumanji. He is welcomed with a bowl of fresh fruits.
Swamiji’s Tithi Puja is celebrated with great pomp in
both Mission and Ashram.
One week after Tithi Puja, Nara-Narayan Puja
is performed. This is a very special event. The splendid statue of Nataraj in
front of the main hospital gate is revered first followed by the stately Statue
of Swamiji by the other hospital building. Flower worship and aarati are
performed by the senior-most monks with brahmacharis synchronously chanting
various Vedic Suktas. After that, all the patients occupying the beds of the
hospital are literally worshipped as living Shiva amidst the Vedic chantings.
Each patient is worshipped with incense, flower, sandal paste and garland;
aarati is done with lighted deep and offered fruits, cloth and spiritual books.
Ramakrishna Mission Home of Service, Kashi, is the first institution of
Ramakrishna order to perform this literal Nara-Narayan (Siva Jnane Jiva Seva)
Puja.
In days gone by, mode of currency used to be
sea-shells (Kauri). Many kauris were stuck on the main wall of the compound by
the poor people and thence the hospital came to be known as Kauriya Aspatal. In
UP, Hospital is pronounced as Aspatal in local dialect.
Dedicated doctors and
volunteers offering free or nominally paid services are also housed within this
13-acre complex. The sprawling complex house the hospital buildings,
dispensaries, monk’s quarters, retired monks’ quarters, dining hall, guest
houses, vegetable gardens, flower gardens, doctor’s quarters, cowshed, resident
staff quarters, old age home for women and old age home for the men to name a
few.
4. Ramakrishna Advaita
Ashram (Holy Mother attended Durga Puja, Kali Puja and
Jagatdhatri Puja here.)
Ramakrishna Mission
Varanasi is made up of Advaita Ashram and the Hospital which is also the Home
of Service in adherence to Swamiji’s “atmano mokshartham, jagat hitaya cha.”
The Advaita Ashram
consists of a simple temple of Sri Ramakrishna housed adjacent to a high
ceiling sheeted courtyard with benches and fans. Inside the temple sanctum, in
a niche in the wall, there is a Holy Mother’s picture. On Her last visit
to Kashi in 1912 Holy Mother installed this picture there Herself and
worshipped it. She also instructed the Abbot of Advaita Ashram Chandra, Swami
Nirbharanandaji maharaj, to worship this picture daily with little flowers.
Since then, daily puja goes on. Mangal-aarati (early morning) and Sandhya
(evening) Aarati is conducted duly everyday. Gates are open for everyone.
On the left is a small
temple of Swami Vivekananda which zealously guards a portion of His
relics. These relics are brought out for the blessed worshippers, and attending
devotees to pay obeisance; only on Swami Vivekananda’s Tithi Puja Day.
Beyond the courtyard
is a 3+ story building with a covered veranda facing the courtyard. All special
pujas are performed here except Thakur’s Tithi Puja. There are pictures of all
direct disciples and Thakur, Ma Swamiji. One locked room is marked Holy
Mother’s room. During Durga Puja when Holy Mother attended, She used this
room along with other accompanying women devotees.
A long-covered hallway
extends across the whole length of the building ending at one end in
Adhyaksha’s office and the dining hall at the other end. Chairs are set up
during these pujas where both male and female devotees and sit and attend.
Shivaratri in Advaita Ashram. A very special privilege is given
to the blessed devotees attending Mahashivaratri in Advaita Ashram. Advaita
Ashram is situated on the main Luxa road which leads straight to Baba
Vishwanath’s temple. Amidst the din outside the ashram complex, Shiva gets
worshipped on this verandah of Advaita Ashram in total peace and quiet. Puja
with appropriate mantrams get conducted at each of the 4 prahars,
accompanied by soulful bhajans and concluded with offering of bel-leaves and
ganga jal. At the end of each prahar, both female and male devotees each get
to offer their bel leaves with ganga jal and touch the shivalinga deity while
offering pranams. At the end of the night long puja, at the crack of dawn,
the mangal Aarati of Thakur in His temple and the concluding Aarati of Lord
Shiva occurs simultaneously!
On the first floor of Advaita
Ashram there is a room dedicated to Latu Maharaj Swami Adbhutananda.
His paduka, lathi (wooden stick), cot, His cherished pictures of Mother Kali,
Divine Mother amongst others are hung on the walls. A huge painting of Latu
Maharaj adorning the wall casts His benevolent glance on all. This hidden gem
is perfect for mediation and japa.
5. Sarada Math
Of course, no
pilgrimage place like Kashi can be complete without having a branch of Sarada
Math where Holy Mother, Sri Sarada Devi, is the central deity. From Advaita Ashram,
one can walk or take a toto to the Math. It’s on the opposite side of the
Advaita Ashram albeit through quite-a-few galis inside.
6. Benaras Hindu University (BHU) Shiv Mandir
BHU is situated beyond
Assi river on a huge sprawling complex sporting even a helipad. BHU trauma
center is very well known along with its famous fine standard University. The
BHU complex sports an impressive shiva temple which features amongst the
must-visit list.
7.
Vireshwar
Shiva (Holy Mother visited
this temple).
Swami Vivekananda is considered an incarnation of
Vireshwar Shiva. His aunt offered worship for 1 year to Lord Vireshwar Shiva
while his mother kept fasts and vigils in her Kolkata home. After the end of
one year, Swamiji’s mother, Bhubaneshwari devi had a dream that Lord Shiva
roused Himself from His deep transcendental meditation and took the form of a
male child who was to be her son. She found herself bathed in light. In due
course of time, Narendranath Dutta, our beloved Swami Vivekananda was born.
Specialty of Vireshwar shiva is there are little
shiva faces etched along the Guripatta. The vision of Mahapurush Maharaj
relates to this most probably. There are two versions of this incident. One
incident has been mentioned under Botuk Bhairav.
Mahapurush Maharaj, Swami Shivanandaji and Swamiji
used to share one bed. Even while sleeping, Swamiji’s huge lotus eyes would not
fully close. A little bit would remain open like Lord Shiva’ mediation pose. It’s
so happened, suddenly in the middle of one night Mahapurush Maharaj awoke with
a start. There was no Swamiji sleeping beside him in the same bed. Instead, a
few 7-8 yrs. old white complexioned Shivas occupied where Swamiji had laid down
for the night. Mahapurushji couldn’t lay there anymore for fear of inadvertently
touching them with his foot during slumber. He spent the rest of the night in
deep meditation. When he opened his eyes Swamiji was sleeping there…!
8. Dhundi Ganesh (Holy Mother visited)
This is a tiny temple
almost at the entrance of Baba Vishwanath’s temple. People offer their prayers
to the Lord here who removes all obstacles. One can visit Lord Vinayaka before
having darshan of Baba.
9. Jagannath temple (Holy Mother visited)
This is located in
Bhelupur near Assi ghat. Need an auto or toto to get there.
10. Swami Bhaskarananda’s temple (Holy Mother
visited)
Swami Bhashkarananda
Saraswati belonged to the Dashanami sampradaya Dandi sannyasi order. His
samadhi shrine is situated at Durga Kund, adjacent to Durga Mandir.
11. Kamakhya (Holy Mother visited)
12. Vaidyanath (Holy Mother visited)
13. Shankar Math (Holy Mother visited. Later she fed the monks of this
Math.)
14. Ramkunda (Holy Mother visited)
Ramkunda is adjacent
to Srinagar colony on the opposite side of Ramakrishna Advaita Ashram across
Luxa road.
15. Vishalakshi Temple (Peethasthan, Shakti-Peeth,
Ma Parvati/Sati’s earring, eye or face)
This temple is
situated on the famous Manikarnika ground. Priests say Mother Sati’s face fell
here which is hidden behind the image.
16. Lahiri Mahasay’s Ashram
17. Anandamoyi Ma’s Ashram
18. Bharat Sevashram Sangha
Kashi is central to quite a few places of
pilgrimage. These trips range from half a day to 3-4 days trip.
5.1.3.1
Ramnagar
Fort
In Kashi
itself, on the other side of Ganges is the Ramnagar Fort. It houses a museum.
By car or auto it takes about 10 mins and by boat more than 45 mins.
5.1.3.2
BHU
campus
5.1.3.3
Cruise
on Ganga
There is a cruise operating https://alaknandacruise.com/ Must buy tickets beforehand.
5.1.3.4
Triveni
Sangam at Prayag, Allahabad
This is a
day trip and takes about 3+ hours. The famous Sangam of 3 revered rivers,
Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati is the place of pilgrimage. Swami Vijnananandaji
Maharaj had a beautiful vision of a young girl with 3 hair plaits walking in front
of him. He realized that was Mother Triveni.
5.1.3.5
Vindhyachal
Famous shaktipeeth
temple dedicated to Ma Vindhyavasini is located on top of a hillock. She is Yogamaya,
sister of Krishna and Balaram who took the form of white kite after slipping
from his killer hands, soared into the skies soothsaying his doomed (redeemed?)
future. She is also mentioned in Chandi, Saptasati/Devi
Mahatmyam as Goddess Durga who fought Mahisasura here. In another
aspect, Divine Mother took this form to destroy Raktabeeja.
Vindhyachal
lies midway between Kashi and Prayag. It’s about 1 and half hour by car from
Kashi.
5.1.3.6
Gaya
Ultimate
place for offering the last rites to ancestors. Almost 6 hours by car or 5
hours by train. Here the sraddha (last rite) ceremony starts at river Falgu
which flows underneath the sand bed, proceeds to Vishnu Padapadma mandir and
culminates at the feet of the Akshaya-Bat (centuries-old banyan tree, young as
new).
There is
also Bodh Gaya where Lord Gautam Buddha attained His Nirvana (enlightenment).
5.1.3.7
Ayodhya
The
birthplace of Sri Ramachandra and setting for the great epic Ramayana, it is
also known as Ram Janma Bhoomi. It’s another coveted pilgrimage site.
4.5 hours
by car or 5.5 hours by train. It would
take about 2 days for this trip.
5.1.3.8
Naimish
Aranya
In Treta
Yuga, Sri Ramachandra during his forest-exile with Mother Sita and
brother Laxman came into Naimish Aranya and met many rishis here. Out of the
88000 rishis residing there, 108 of them recognized Sri Ramachandra as Para
Brahman and desired to adore Him as beloved. Sri Ramachandra granted their wish
in Dwapar Yuga where these rishis incarnated as the Braja-Gopis.
Other rishis were absorbed in meditation on Nirakar-Brahman and
recognized Sri Ramachandra as son of King Dasharath only. Sri Ramachandra was
pleased with all and blessed them all.
Sri Ramachandra
resided in this forest peacefully for some time.
There are
temples dedicated to Rishi Dadhichi, Rishi Shringi, Sri Lalita
Devi (Shakti Peeth where Mother Sati’s heart fell), Bhuteshwar
Mahadev as Saakaar ling form.
5.1.3.9
Dandakaranya
Most of
the Ramayana happened here. Sri Ramachandra spent 13 years of His 14-year exile
here. Kashi to Amarkantak takes about 6.5 – 10 hours by car and about the same
by train.
5.1.3.10
Chitrakoot Parvat
By grace of Lord Hanuman, Sant
Tulsidas arrived in Chitrakoot and had the vision of Ramayana being enacted. It
is also said that Sant Tulasidasji wrote his epic Ramayana and Hanuman Chalisa
in Chitrakoot.
In this chitrakoot, Rishi
Agastya, Sage Sharabhnga, Atri Muni resided. At Ram Ghat Lord Rama is said to
have performed his Pitra-tarpan to His father, King Dasharath. Chitrakoot is
also where Sri Ramachandra was beseeched by His brother Bharat to return from
His exile and take reigns of His kingdom that was rightfully His. Lord refused
and sent Bharat back with His own paduka as an official seal to rule inplace of
Him. There is a temple Ram Bharat Milap Mandir with Their footprints.
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