TRAVEL ToC

Kashi Travel - Introduction

 

Kashi/Varanasi/Benares- Travel Points

Nandini Mitra Banerjee

May 24, 2022

1      Introduction

Where does one even start with Kashi? Maybe from the name? In this article both facts, fiction, mythology and folklore are incorporated. So, readers are free to believe or discard according to fancy.

Kashi is also called Benaras and Varanasi. Kashi is the ancient name of the place. Kashi kingdom with its ruler finds mention in the Mahabharat epic as well as Buddha preaching His first sermon at Sarnath. Kashi is the oldest living city dating atleast 5000 years. Since Indians are notorious in keeping historical records, it is impossible to prove when Kashi started being called Benaras. The name Varanasi was given to the place after British rule in 1947 because this area was situated between the two rivers Varuna and Assi.

                Kashi, as the belief goes, resides on Lord Shivas trident (Trishul) tips by which it is forever protected against Time, the great destroyer. Thus, it is considered outside of Universe” and Avimukta. During the Mahapralaya Lord withdraws into Himself, His manifestation along with it His Lila-Kshetra (playground) which manifests again when the cosmos manifestation starts. Thus, Vrindaban Dham’s manifestation disappears with the disappearance of Lord Krishna’s visible form and similarly, Kashi disappears with the disappearance of Lord Shiva’s visible form to manifest again. This cycle goes on eternally.

Kashi is also where Lord Shiva resides and hence termed “Shiva-Kshetra”.

 

2      Why Kashi?

                During centuries of religious onslaught, Hinduism’s survival pivot was Kashi. Christianity and Islam, all left their marks; but one place that stood rooted in the ancient faith of Sanatan Dharma (now known as Hinduism) and assimilated wide-armed with love and understanding all other faiths, is Kashi. Many sects of Sanatana Dharma have a center in Kashi holding a firm belief that it is under the protection of Lord Shiva. Many other established pilgrimage deities scattered through other parts of India, finds for itself a replica/representation in Kashi. One darshan of them in Kashi is equivalent to a real pilgrimage to that actual place.

              The Mughal emperor, Aurangzeb’s drive to convert Sanatana Dharma to Islam brought vengeance, desecration and destruction to many temples in Kashi especially Lord Vishwanath’s. The pious queen Ahilyabai Holkar of Holkar dynasty of Maratha empire was instrumental in (re)construction of Kashi Vishwanath’s temple after Aurangzeb had demolished the original and built a mosque in its place. The current Baba Vishwanath’s temple’s main image (Shivalinga) is however the original shivalinga that the priests had hidden in a well during the raid.  The queen also restored and built many ghats including Manikarnika along the great purifier Ganges river, constructed dharmshalas (rest houses for pilgrims) and dug wells in Kashi. Ghat is a concrete flight of steps leading down to the river. There is one ghat along the banks of Ganges named Ahilyabai Ghat dedicated to the sage queen.

It is stated in Kashi Purana that any living creature who dies in Kashi will be liberated. Thus, through the sands of time, thirsting for salvation, many widows, abandoned, aged people amongst others, would relocate to Kashi to breathe their last.

According to Karma-siddhanta of Hinduism, a soul goes through eternal cycle of birth-and-death because of unexhausted result of work (karma-phala). Unsatisfied desires lead to a new birth giving the soul the opportunity to eventually become desireless and thus free from this cycle. But this is almost unattainable! Seeing the plight of poor (jivas) souls, Lord took pity and created this place called Kashi. Here, the eight fetters (ashta-paash) which is the resultant of all the remaining karma-phalas, get destroyed of the lucky jiva as soon as the life-force (prana) leaves the body.

                But how this happens was forgotten over time. Customary to incarnations (Avatars) who revive the forgotten spiritual rites and sites, Paramhamsa Ramakrishna Dev’s vision reestablished the reason behind this fabled belief. While traversing Ganga on boat with Mathurbabu and others, as soon as he beheld the Manikarnika Ghats’s blazing pyres He went into a trance. Once His mind descended on normal plane, he recounted that - as soon as the dead body was placed on the pyre, He saw (Sadashiv) white complexioned Mahadev, Shiva, approach the pyre followed by Mother Kali. Divine Mother cut the eight fetters of the jiva and handed the jiva over to Lord Shiva. Lord whispered the liberating jnana (spiritual knowledge) as Tarak-mantra in its ears set the soul free.

                Over time, doubts crept up especially because Swami Vivekananda said that without Jnana (here referring to knowledge of Brahman) one cannot be liberated. Hence to settle this once and for all, Holy Mother, Sri Sarada Devi was approached several times. To all these queries Holy Mother replied emphatically that “Master (Sri Ramakrishna) has said that anyone dying in Kashi would be liberated.” “Yes, even a fly if it dies in Kashi would be liberated.” This fact is supported in Jabala Upanishad.

Hence Kashi is known as Moksha-Kshetra; place where one gets liberated. The eight fetters as outlined by Sri Ramakrishna in Gospel of Sri Ramakrishna (Kathamrita) are: shame, hatred, fear, caste, lineage, good conduct, grief and secretiveness. These fetters bind jiva to this cycle of birth and death.

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